Wearing a traditional Japanese Kimono

They say the feeling of pure silk against the skin is as close to heaven as it gets. But it wasn’t the lightweight material I touched that day. My body carried over 30 kilograms of heavy garments, decorations, and headpieces. I was wearing a Japanese Kimono in Japan. I had only dreamed of dressing up in a traditional Japanese kimono before, but now, for just one day, my dream has come true.

Almost two decades ago, I became obsessed with the Japanese lifestyle. I studied Japanese manners and customs, spent countless evenings reading about the tea ceremony and the Japanese culture. I even learnt basic Japanese and continue to take lessons to improve on my language skills.

When you think of Japan, you inevitably imagine people wearing a traditional kimono, the Japanese traditional attire. Of course, nowadays, western clothes or yukatas are used for everyday wear. Nevertheless, the beauty of a Japanese kimono remains seen as a great work of art, usually hand sewn made with exceptional skill and care.

In this guide, I will tell you about my experience wearing a kimono in Japan and what it’s like to be in Japanese traditional clothes. Both my husband and I wore kimonos, so I will explain in details the differences between a Japanese kimono for men and women, as well as the culture behind wearing such fine garments.

Wearing a Kimono in Japan

A day of anticipation and wonder unfurled before me, my heart aflutter with a curious blend of excitement and nerves. We journeyed in an old, white minibus, its lingering scent of cigarettes and aura of untold tales silently accompanying us. I remained a quiet observer throughout our voyage, anticipation building with each passing moment.

At last, we arrived at the doorstep of a hidden world, nestled beside a breathtaking Japanese garden. A bamboo fence stood sentinel, as maple and cherry trees presided over a serene Zen garden. Stepping through the doorway, I was ushered into a secret Japan, where tatami floors whispered beneath my feet, and sliding doors and paper windows concealed a realm of enchantment.

Beaming faces greeted me, as a group of women led me into a room filled with exquisite kimonos. With practised grace, they chose the perfect kimono dress, Japanese robe, and kimono obi that seemed to have been waiting just for me. My husband and our guide were kindly asked to wait outside, as the women’s excitement bubbled over, eager to begin the magical transformation.

What to expect from the Oiran Japanese kimono experience

In a room filled with warmth and camaraderie, I was invited to disrobe and don a white robe for the upcoming transformation. The atmosphere was brimming with the joy of a secret sisterhood, and I felt at ease, as though I had known these ladies for a lifetime. Upon catching sight of the tattoo on my back, they giggled with delight, gathering around to admire the inked artwork. “Kawaii” they exclaimed, their curiosity piqued. Despite my awareness of the taboo surrounding tattoos in Japan, their light-hearted acceptance put me at ease, even more so when one of the ladies revealed her own hidden, charming tattoo.

Whisked away to a new room with a picturesque view of the tranquil pond, I watched as turtles and elegant Japanese carp meandered through the water, framed by the verdant foliage. The scene embodied the perfect harmony of beauty and serenity.

The ladies, their smiles contagious, warned me that the preparation for wearing a Japanese kimono would take a few hours. One of them delicately applied white paint usually used in Kabuki theatre to my neck and nape, a region revered for its sensuality in Japanese culture. Her strokes were both gentle and practised, leaving two alluring stripes of bare skin exposed.

As the makeup was gently applied, my European features transformed into a porcelain-like visage, reminiscent of a delicate doll. With meticulous care, red eyeshadow and black eyeliner were applied, further accentuating the enchanting illusion. My lips, touched by a rich, intense lipstick, took on the appearance of classic Japanese makeup, reflecting the Japanese ideal of beauty that celebrates the allure of smaller, refined lips.

The most time-consuming part of the process was the intricate styling of my hair. Long hair was preferred, but fear not, extensions were available to accommodate all. My natural hair was enhanced with added volume and shape, while a colour-matched wheel was skilfully wrapped in my tresses.

“Women suffer for beauty,” the Japanese lady told me. “They used to do this hair once a week and sleep on a hair pillow. Very difficult until you get used to it.”

The weight of the elaborate style challenged my neck, but I couldn’t help but admire its magnificence, secretly wishing I could wear it every day.

Over the next half hour, they adorned my locks with a dazzling array of coloured threads, crowns, and myriad pins, each detail adding to the enchanting tableau.

Dressing in a Japanese kimono

The moment to don a kimono dress had finally arrived, a dream I had cherished for countless years. Wearing a kimono in Japan promised an experience of delightful heaviness, as I was told, a sensation I could hardly fathom, considering the weight of my elaborately styled hair.

My journey began with the wearing of a white Nagajuban robe, a practical, machine-washable garment that protects the kimono from dirt. Typically white and visible only at the collar, the Nagajuban for an Oiran featured a triangular fold that revealed a striking red collar. A Datejime was used to secure the robe.

The kimono I chose was a furisode, its swinging sleeves cascading between 39 and 42 inches (about 100 cm). The heavenly touch of the silky fabric, adorned with a mesmerizing red and white cherry blossom motifs, left me spellbound.

As an Oiran, my kimono was worn in the Ohikizuri style, or dragging tail. The Uchikake over-robe draped elegantly behind me, setting me apart from a Geisha.

The Manaita Obi tied at the front served several purposes: to enable easy untying in bed, to flaunt the client’s wealth, and to display the Oiran’s vanity.

To complete the ensemble, a stunning Uchikake awaited me. Reserved for brides or stage performances, this highly formal kimono trailed along the floor, its heavily padded hem adding to the grandeur. The layers weighed over 20 kilograms, demanding strength and poise to navigate in such exquisite attire without faltering or discomfort. The dedication required by this way of life was awe-inspiring.

As I ventured into the garden, I wore Oiran Getas, their towering height presenting a challenge to my balance and grace. For the first time in my life, I felt what it was like to be really tall.

Japanese kimono for men

In the midst of my enchanting transformation, my husband too embarked on his own adventure, being adorned in a kimono of his own.

His attire was more modest, comprising just five pieces and no accompanying footwear. He described the kimono as lightweight and comfortable, exuding a sense of luxury.

With great enthusiasm, he embraced the distinctive Tabi, ankle-high divided-toe socks, and Zōri, traditional sandals akin to flip-flops, worn by both men and women in Japan.

Wearing a kimono in Japan for men is a different experience. Here is what a formal traditional men’s kimono consists of:

• Kimono: The main garment, which is a long, T-shaped robe with wide sleeves and a straight-lined silhouette. My husband’s kimono was made of silk and had a more understated design compared to my kimono.
• Nagajuban: A thin undergarment or under-robe worn beneath the kimono. It serves to protect the outer kimono from sweat, as well as providing an additional layer for comfort and modesty.
• Obi: A wide sash or belt used to secure the kimono in place. Men’s obis are narrower and less ornate than those worn by women.
• Tabi: Ankle-high, divided-toe socks worn with traditional Japanese footwear.
• Zōri: Zōri are flat sandals made from materials like straw, cloth, or leather.

As this was a formal kimono event, he also wore a Haori (a formal jacket), a Haori Himo (Japanese Traditional tasselled cord) and the Hakama (a wide-pleated skirt-like garment).

Our experience wearing a Japanese kimono

Once we were ready and the room impeccably arranged, we took turns posing for the camera. Guided by precise instructions on how to sit or stand, and position our arms and necks, we felt like celebrities as countless photos were snapped.

Later, the photoshoot moved to the back garden, where I was elevated on my oiran geta. You can see that in the pictures standing right next to my very tall husband, I’m almost as tall as him.

With the assistance of three people, I managed to walk and strike poses gracefully. I felt beautiful and splendid.

Curiosity piqued, patrons from the tea house requested to take pictures with us. We continued our enchanting journey to the front Zen garden, perfectly staging our Japanese kimonos. Passers-by couldn’t resist sneaking peeks over the fence and snapping their photos. It was delightful to be the subject of such fascination.

We spent over an hour capturing memories from every angle, knowing we’d have a treasure trove of photos in our exquisite kimonos. The experience made me feel even more cherished than on my wedding day.

Finally, content with our photoshoot, we returned to disrobe. The attendants gently removed my makeup, signalling the end of my diva moment.

Ravenous after so much excitement, we were treated to a bento box filled with tasty sushi and rice. Oh, the joys of Japanese hospitality! How I wished I could have moved into that enchanting tea house, basking in the attentive care, preparing for photoshoots, and savouring the exquisite cuisine every day.

What are the secrets behind the traditional Japanese kimono?

During our leisurely lunch, we talked about the history of Japanese kimonos, Oiran, and Geisha. Before this enlightening experience, I had scarcely known the distinctions between Oirans, Geishas, and Maikos. There was much to uncover.

Courtesans were called Tayū or Oiran, and they thrived between 1643 and 1763. These courtesans were regarded as yūjo, or “women of pleasure” akin to prostitutes. It’s important to note that Geishas and Oiran are not the same thing. While they worked together in the entertainment districts, Geishas were selling their skills and not their bodies. Oiran, on the other hand, were known courtesans. The Oiran profession vanished around the Edo Period.

Even though Oirans were known courtesans, the government conferred upon them the prestigious Senior Fifth Rank, equivalent to a feudal lord. The red collar they wore symbolized their esteemed status.

A brief history of the oiran

I pondered how girls became oiran. The truth is, most had no choice. Coming from impoverished farming and fishing villages, many were sold for money. Lower-ranking samurai often sold their wives and daughters to repay debts. Sometimes women were deceived and sold by unscrupulous men. Some girls were even kidnapped and forced into the profession.

There were three prominent red-light districts known in Japan: Yoshiwara, a renowned yūkaku in what is now Tokyo, which emerged in 1617. It stood alongside Shimabara in Kyoto, established in 1640, and Shinmachi in Osaka.

Once within a red-light district gates, there was no turning back. Escapees were hunted, captured, and tortured. The selling price of these women ranged from approximately 300,000 yen (approx £2000) to 1.8 million yen (approx £10,500). Only a select few reached the coveted Oiran status. Most began their lives as harlots around 16 or 17 years old, and many needed a daily client to survive. Girls with less desirable features often became house managers, while the more alluring advanced to Oiran.

The rules of service for prostitutes required them to work from about 16 or 17 until they were 28, referred to as the “10 years of suffering death”. There were three ways to leave this harrowing life: repay their debt during the “10 years of suffering death” or have someone else redeem their debt and future earnings, or meet their demise. However, many remained in the house, unable to escape their debt.

Those with enchanting features were meticulously trained to become Oiran, receiving first-class education in classical literature, Japanese poetry, calligraphy, tea ceremony, samisen, Japanese harp, and the games of go and shogi. Engaging with an Oiran was no simple task, as clients had to demonstrate their wealth and offer expensive gifts, such as lavish kimonos.

The first encounter with an Oiran involved her appraising the client from a higher seat, exchanging not a single word. If the client was deemed unsuitable, a second meeting would never transpire. On the second encounter, the Oiran would approach closer while continuing her evaluation. Finally, during the third meeting, the Oiran would become acquainted with the client, and after receiving a handsel, she would consent to sleep with him. The client was then forbidden from consorting with other prostitutes, or they would face hefty compensation fees.

Oiran vs Geisha

Oiran and Geisha are often confused due to their similar cultural contexts, but they hold distinct roles, attire, and makeup within Japanese society. I wrote a full and comprehensive guide explaining the differences of Oiran vs Geisha.

What is an Oiran?

Oiran were high-class courtesans in Japan, particularly during the Edo period (1603-1868). They were the pinnacle of the yūjo, and entertained guests with their skills in dance, music, and conversation. As the most elite of all courtesans, Oiran were expected to have exceptional beauty and education in various arts.

Oiran wore opulent kimonos as you can see from my photos, typically heavily adorned with intricate patterns and embroidery. They donned multiple layers of silk, with the outermost layer being the most elaborate. Their obi (sash) was tied in the front, which was a unique characteristic of Oiran, and they wore tall, wooden platform sandals called koma-geta or oiran-geta.

Oiran wore striking makeup, characterized by a thick white foundation made from rice powder, bold red lips, and dramatic eyes with red and black accents. Their eyebrows were elongated and shaped into a gentle curve.

What is a Geisha?

Geisha, also known as geiko in Kyoto, are professional entertainers skilled in traditional Japanese arts such as dance, music, and tea ceremonies. They have been part of Japanese culture since the 18th century and continue to play a significant role today. Geisha are known for their elegance, refined mannerisms, and profound knowledge of various arts and traditions.

Geisha wear simpler kimonos compared to Oiran, often in subdued colours and patterns. Their obi is tied at the back, and the length of the obi varies depending on the region. Geisha wear white tabi (split-toe socks) and traditional wooden sandals called okobo or zori.

Geisha makeup is characterized by a white foundation made from rice powder, but it is applied in a thinner layer than that of Oiran. They accentuate their eyes with black liner and red eyeshadow, while their lips are painted in red, typically in a smaller shape to create an illusion of a delicate mouth. Geisha fill in their eyebrows with charcoal, giving them a softer and more natural appearance.

Oiran were high-ranking courtesans with opulent attire and makeup, while Geisha are skilled entertainers who showcase refined aesthetics and a profound understanding of traditional Japanese arts.

Are tourists allowed to wear kimono in Japan?

Yes, tourists are allowed to wear kimono in Japan, as long as you wear it with respect and admiration. Our kimono experience was facilitated by Japanese locals who were keen to share their culture with us and tell us all about it. Many Japanese people loved seeing us in a kimono, passers-by, and patrons from the tea house requested to take pictures with us.

You can rent a kimono in Kyoto or Tokyo, from dedicated kimono houses that help foreigners dress beautifully in a kimono.

Frequently Asked Questions